Hanoi
Scenes around where I stayed in the Old Quarter.
Hanoi
Scenes around where I stayed in the Old Quarter.
Bai Tu Long Bay
After trekking, time to relax on a cruise of Bai Tu Long Bay -- further east and more remote than the touristy Halong Bay.
Three days sailing in emerald waters amongst the rugged outcrops of limestone rock called 'karsts'.
According to legend, an immense dragon descended to Hạ Long Bay (meaning ‘’Descending Dragon’’) millions years ago, dropping numerous eggs. The eggs hatched forming thousands of rocks and islands. The tail of the dragon extended far out to sea, forming Bạch Long Vĩ island (meaning "The Tail of the White Dragon"). As she returned to heaven, she said good bye to her offspring at the Bái Tử Long Bay (means "The dragon parts the offspring").
Sapa
Off to Northern Vietnam, near the China border, to trek through the mountains and valleys to visit and stay in local ethnic villages of the Hmong, Dao, Giay, and Tay. Also where Vietnam's highest peak, Mt Fansipan, is located at about 3200 meters.
Simplest way to reach Sapa is by overnight train which was an adventure of its own!
Hanoi
Established as a city 1,000 years ago, inhabited since about 300 b.c. and first named Thang Long, or Soaring Dragon, by the Emperor of the day as he had seen a dragon rising from the river. Nowadays, it is the capital of Vietnam, almost 8 million in the area, and a vibrant organized chaos of commerce and daily life.
The taxi ride from the airport to the hotel took about 40 minutes and the route was lined with people cooking on sidewalk braziers -- immense pots of pho (Vietnamese noodle soup eaten for breakfast, lunch and dinner) and various types of meat on skewers -- people squatting or seated on low stools with bowl and chopsticks and cups of tea at hand.
The hotel was in the Old Quarter where every street block has a different name that reflects the goods that were originally sold there more than 1,000 years ago ... some streets today still have shops that represent the name - silk, jewelry, cotton.
The taxi stopped at a narrow unlit alley with no hotel that I could see -- the driver spoke no English so when he opened the door and motioned me to get out, I stayed put and kept pointing at the scrap of paper in my hand with the hotel address and then looking quizzically around me. No luck, he clearly was not a fan of charades.
Out of the dark alley appeared a young man in a uniform with the name of the hotel printed on it and who knew my name! He took my suitcase, I grabbed my backpack and followed him up the alley that was lined with garbage, unfamiliar smells and not a person in sight (by now it was 11 p.m.). My mind was going over why I had thought this was a good choice for a hotel and how I could improve my research skills.
Arrived at the Hanoi Serene Hotel, light spilling onto the street and up a few stairs to the warmest welcoming smiles and a cup of tea. Checked into a lovely room with a bottle of wine, plate of bananas and dragon fruit, and, oddly enough I thought, earplugs by the bedside as it was wonderfully quiet outside, not a scooter or voice to be heard.
Wide awake at 4 a.m. -- not because of jet lag -- roosters, multiple roosters, in the city, sounded like they were perched outside my room, crowing incessantly and, as I peered out the window wondering whether they were within choking proximity, the people that lived in the houses along the alley, were up and about, off on scooters, opening their storefronts and setting out their goods ... the street was a bustling food market by day! Hmm, earplugs by the bedside ...
The Old Quarter is filled with 'shop houses', Buddhist temples and pagodas. The shop houses are tall and narrow (3 to 6 stories high), built to avoid space footprint and hence lower taxes. At one time, one family would live in the house with their business storefront -- nowadays, multiple families might live in each building.
Most of the original prison has been destroyed but enough remains to give you a sense of the horrendous conditions, especially suffered by the political prisoners.
Strolled around Hoan Kiem Lake, one of dozens dotted throughout Hanoi. It is home to some endangered large soft shell turtles which, if spotted, was considered auspicious. Give the murkiness of the water, I thought it would have been quite miraculous to see one.
During the late afternoon and evening, couples strolled along the lit paths surrounding the lake and elders practiced Tai Chi