Madrid / by Sherri McEwen

The vibe in Madrid is unlike other European cities I've visited -- lively and energetic from arrival at Atocha (main train/bus hub) and getting on the right bus (wrong direction though) to the apartment rented in the old section of Madrid.   

When I had an uneasy feeling that perhaps I had been on the bus too long without reaching the plaza that was supposed to be 6 minutes away, I pulled out my notes on the address and asked a woman near me if I was headed in that direction.   

She didn't speak English, as no one else on the bus seemed to, but my notes were handed around and everyone had loud overlapping discussions then appeared to be in agreement that I was headed in the wrong direction and pushed me and my luggage out the door at the next exit with charades and Spanish directions to cross the street and get the same # bus but in the other direction.

Made it to the apartment, dropped the luggage and headed out to enjoy the sunset and the nightly paseo of the local Madrillenos.   

Just before sunset, the locals will stroll the streets with their families, greeting neighbors, some until after midnight!  Couldn't figure out how they could be such night owls until the next day when many shops and businesses closed for the afternoon siesta.

Sunset from the apartment balcony - Madrid skyline. 

Sunset from the apartment balcony - Madrid skyline. 

Bakery around the corner - baguette $.50 - and coffee on the balcony.

Bakery around the corner - baguette $.50 - and coffee on the balcony.

15 minute stroll to Almudena Cathedral -- massive at 110 yard long (same as a Canadian football field) and 80 yards high.

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Bronze sculpted doors

Bronze sculpted doors

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5,000 pipe organ - bright and colorful ceiling, unusual as it didn't have religious images. 

5,000 pipe organ - bright and colorful ceiling, unusual as it didn't have religious images. 

15th century altarpiece with tomb of Queen Maria de la Mercedes below - congregation receiving Sunday blessings.

15th century altarpiece with tomb of Queen Maria de la Mercedes below - congregation receiving Sunday blessings.

View of the Cathedral across the Palace courtyard 

View of the Cathedral across the Palace courtyard 

The Royal Palace built in the 18th century on the site of a previous Christian fortress which was built on the site of a 6th century Moorish castle -- presently used for formal state receptions, Royal weddings and ceremonial occasions.

The Palace has 2800 rooms, almost 15 million square feet, and it took me almost 3 hours to see 20 of them. 

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Built mostly of local stone to avoid the risk of fire that destroyed the previous castle. 

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Grand stairs of the Palace lobby

Grand stairs of the Palace lobby

Last area where photographs were allowed - ceiling frescoe of the Spanish King surrounded by female virtues

Last area where photographs were allowed - ceiling frescoe of the Spanish King surrounded by female virtues

The Palace was King Philip V's version of Versailles (he grew up in France), now considered Europe's third greatest palace, incredibly sumptuous, opulent and filled with priceless antiques, breathtaking and a display of Spanish Royal history.

View of the Palace from the Plaza de Oriente (named as it faces the east). 

View of the Palace from the Plaza de Oriente (named as it faces the east). 

Mercado de San Miguel

Built in 1916 on the site of a former market -- vendors selling produce, ham, seafood wine, beer, meals -- jammed with tourists and locals.

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Jamon -- cured ham of various types with the hoof still attached. 

Jamon -- cured ham of various types with the hoof still attached. 

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Squid sandwiches, popular in Madrid. 

Squid sandwiches, popular in Madrid. 

Scenes from the streets of Madrid ...

Beer glass musician! 

Beer glass musician! 

Street art

Street art

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Painted on the entrance to a parking garage

Painted on the entrance to a parking garage

Plaza Mayor - main square dating from the 17th century and had been used as an open air theatre, for bullfights, and during the Inquisition when the balconies were filled by the wealthy and bleachers built for spectators while the 'guilty' were trie…

Plaza Mayor - main square dating from the 17th century and had been used as an open air theatre, for bullfights, and during the Inquisition when the balconies were filled by the wealthy and bleachers built for spectators while the 'guilty' were tried and heretics burned, criminals strangled.

'Living statue' street performers

'Living statue' street performers

Live theatre .. live theaters every 4 or 5 blocks.

Live theatre .. live theaters every 4 or 5 blocks.

Moorish architecture  

Moorish architecture  

Sculpture at the Centro de Arte Reina Sofia - modern art museum

Sculpture at the Centro de Arte Reina Sofia - modern art museum

The visit was especially to see this historical large mural, "Guernica", by Picasso. In 1937, a northern Basque Spanish town  - Guernica - was the site approved by the Spanish dictator, Franco, for Hitler's Air Force to test the world's fi…

The visit was especially to see this historical large mural, "Guernica", by Picasso. 

In 1937, a northern Basque Spanish town  - Guernica - was the site approved by the Spanish dictator, Franco, for Hitler's Air Force to test the world's first saturation bombing raid on civilians.  Picasso was in Paris when he received news of the bombing and immediately went to work sketching and painting what he imagined the destruction to be.  In a few weeks he put together the 286 square foot mural.

On the left a woman holds her dead baby with her head raised in anguish, the bull represents Spain - usually strong but looking powerless - a man fallen from his horse with arm severed and sword broken, the horse screams, a woman drags herself along with wounded leg, a woman looks from a window trying to understand what is going on, another woman looks up to the horror of the skies.    

The exhibition of the painting brought world attention to Spain's fascist rule and the destruction of modern war technology - Picasso vowed not to return to Spain while Franco ruled but Franco outlived him.

Fountain of Retiro Park - once the private 300 acre park of royalty

Fountain of Retiro Park - once the private 300 acre park of royalty

Look out for gum on the sidewalks????. 

Look out for gum on the sidewalks????. 

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The Crystal Palace, built in 1887 to display exotic plants of the Phillipines, a replica Phillipines village was built outside -- the Phillipines were still a Spanish colony at the time.   Built in the shape of a cross and about 70 feet high inside, nowadays used for art exhibitions.

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Talented buskers everywhere

Talented buskers everywhere

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Monument to King Alfonso XII -- today you can rent rowboats or sit to catch the sunset. 

Monument to King Alfonso XII -- today you can rent rowboats or sit to catch the sunset. 

Palace Velazquez - named for the architect who designed it (who also designed the Crystal Palace)  built in 1884 for exhibitions.

Palace Velazquez - named for the architect who designed it (who also designed the Crystal Palace)  built in 1884 for exhibitions.

Gardens leading to 1600's Buen Retiro Palace

Gardens leading to 1600's Buen Retiro Palace

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Madrid buildings ... 

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1910 to 1950 buildings along the Gran Via.

1910 to 1950 buildings along the Gran Via.

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Madrid City Hall .. 'Refugees Welcome' banner hanging on the front

Madrid City Hall .. 'Refugees Welcome' banner hanging on the front

Secondhand book stalls ... more than a half kilometer lining a pedestrian street. 

Secondhand book stalls ... more than a half kilometer lining a pedestrian street. 

Old sign ... 'Food for children'  

Old sign ... 'Food for children'  

Not keen on an afternoon paseo ... would rather have had an afternoon siesta. 

Not keen on an afternoon paseo ... would rather have had an afternoon siesta. 

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Afternoon break with beer and tapas

Afternoon break with beer and tapas

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Most streets have old ceramic signs with a picture, for the illiterate or, in my case, those that don't read Spanish well! - this was the street where those that needed bits of armor would shop.

Most streets have old ceramic signs with a picture, for the illiterate or, in my case, those that don't read Spanish well! - this was the street where those that needed bits of armor would shop.

Madrid's oldest door on oldest inhabited building - 1480

Madrid's oldest door on oldest inhabited building - 1480

National Archaelogical Museum

National Archaelogical Museum

Egyptian sarcophagus with cloth wrapped mummy inside

Egyptian sarcophagus with cloth wrapped mummy inside

Bartender at taverna preparing tapas ... free if you order a beer! 

Bartender at taverna preparing tapas ... free if you order a beer! 

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12:30 a.m. and people still sitting out chatting over a glass of wine or beer

12:30 a.m. and people still sitting out chatting over a glass of wine or beer